Relays
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Relays
My reciever uses 4.8V, but, as I'm having battery pack problems, could it work using 4.5V?
Last edited by Adam Hargreaves on Wed Aug 24, 2005 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Team 'In Theory'
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Remember 4.8V is only the nominal battery pack voltage (4 x 1.2V). A NiCd or NiMH cell is considered "flat" when it gets to about 1V. Similarly when first charged the cell voltage can be as high as 1.6V.
This gives from 4.0V to 5.6V for a 4-cell pack under normal operating conditions.
A well-designed receiver *should* work comfortably down to 4.0V, however, experience shows that at least some receivers start to behave erratically when the battery voltage drops.
One important thing to consider is the voltage that your 4.5V pack will drop to as it discharges. If you are using 3 x 1.5V alkaline cells, the voltage will drop fairly steadily towards about 1V (per cell). They are usually considered "flat" around 0.8-0.9V per cell.
Unfortunately, receiver operating voltage ranges are not usually clearly given (if at all!), but I would expect a receiver to work down to maybe 3V if it has a "clean" supply. If you drive the motors from the same batteries, you are likely to experience problems at higher voltages.
This gives from 4.0V to 5.6V for a 4-cell pack under normal operating conditions.
A well-designed receiver *should* work comfortably down to 4.0V, however, experience shows that at least some receivers start to behave erratically when the battery voltage drops.
One important thing to consider is the voltage that your 4.5V pack will drop to as it discharges. If you are using 3 x 1.5V alkaline cells, the voltage will drop fairly steadily towards about 1V (per cell). They are usually considered "flat" around 0.8-0.9V per cell.
Unfortunately, receiver operating voltage ranges are not usually clearly given (if at all!), but I would expect a receiver to work down to maybe 3V if it has a "clean" supply. If you drive the motors from the same batteries, you are likely to experience problems at higher voltages.
Gary, Team BeligerAnt
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You can try a few things to improve your situation...
1) Move the receiver (and antenna) as far away as possible from the motor. Keep the motor wiring away from the receiver and antenna.
2) Add a small ceramic capacitor across the motor terminals.
3) Try connecting a small capacitor from each motor terminal to 0V.
4) Try connecting a wire from the metal body of the motor via a capacitor to 0V.
Hope that helps.
1) Move the receiver (and antenna) as far away as possible from the motor. Keep the motor wiring away from the receiver and antenna.
2) Add a small ceramic capacitor across the motor terminals.
3) Try connecting a small capacitor from each motor terminal to 0V.
4) Try connecting a wire from the metal body of the motor via a capacitor to 0V.
Hope that helps.
Gary, Team BeligerAnt
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The RX port on the standard charger gives about 6V so won't charge a 6V battery very well. The Tx port gives about 10V so can be used to charge a 6V pack. Remember to test which is positive the inner or outer part. Also don't charge for more than 5 hours (a 70mah charger with a 300mah battery) Hopes that helps a little bit
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