The seller suggested I dry it out in the oven before I even use it, but I was keen to press forward so I didn't bother. The first few test prints came out great apart from bed adhesion. They would curl up from the bed at the corners. For reference I have an Anycubic i3 Mega with Ultrabase on the bed. So far the best defence I have against the 910 curling up is adding a 10mm brim to the bottom layer.
After I was happy with how the filament was printing I tried printing a chassis half but after about the bottom 3mm of layers it started popping and hissing. I let it finish the print but the surface finish was very poor. I then dried the filament out in the oven at 80 deg. C and it has been fine since then.
Happily, the nylon is about 20% lighter than the PETG which has allowed me to add an extra perimeter to the wall thickness without adding any weight.
This is what I currently have assembled:
I don't consider this presentable. Also the wedge is slightly too tight at the moment so it doesn't automatically pivot downwards. If I can't solve this problem by increasing the clearance then I'll have it pivot on some small bearings.
The bottom chassis half in that pic is the one that was printed before drying the filament out with only 1 perimeter, and the top one is with dried filament and 2 perimeters, you can see the bottom half looks a bit misty and furry. Unfortunately the top half also had much worse performance on overhangs (e.g just above the top of the wedge), I think possibly because I had 2 perimeters instead of just 1, it was more prone to curl up at the corners. Both halves were printed in the orientation of the bottom half.
I'm currently experimenting with printing a chassis half the other way up with support material under the bridges in the middle, and with printing at 245 instead of 260, and with using a raft instead of a brim (like any good scientist, I change about 4 things at a time...). Will report back on how it goes.
The other thing I'm struggling with is how to invert the control when the robot is upside down. The FlySky FS-i6 controller has a setting to invert each channel, but this is a global setting and can't be conditional on the position of one of the switches. It also allows you to set a "dual rate" curve for each channel based on the position of a switch, but it won't allow you to set a negative rate, the lowest it will go is totally flat. Ideally I'd like to be able to flick one of the switches and have that switch decide whether or not the throttle is reversed. Anyone know how to do this? The best plan I've got so far is to leave the menu open on the screen that allows you to invert channels and then invert it using the menu if I get flipped upside down, but that comes with a risk of fat-fingering the menu and inverting the wrong channel.
At the rate this is progressing I expect to be ready by the end of the month, and as such have signed up for AntFreeze 7
