RobotWars101

My third antweight is complete. Wolfhead has a Gartt servo flipping arm, runs on 500RPM motors on 20mm wheels, which doesn't make it fast, but pushes very well. Its speed controller and Flysky receiver were once again supplied by Bristol Bot Builders. Though its boxy shape and front wheel design mak...

I'm not looking to do anything too flash or buy more high-end stuff as I'm making this one out of leftover or used parts. Besides, I have two perfectly operational antweights already. https://www.instagram.com/p/CHagTMcHd6d/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CIApOrhHt-T/ I've already use Bristol Bot Build...

With two complete robots and awaiting parts to finish a third one, I have made plans to make a fourth. I have two unused 300RPM motors and three that were originally on Fili-PA with two of them getting their gear reducers replaced. I also have polycarbonate and a LiPo to spare too. Thing is, with my...

Flipper The Priest has been upgraded, with 500RPM motors replacing the 300RPM ones, more thorough soldering on the wires and switches, a new paint job and even a new name. Flipper The Priest is no more (probably). Say hello to Fili-PA - a Filipino flag flipper, if you will. https://www.instagram.com...

Ah yes, parallel. It's all coming back to me. I got the terms wrong. ELEV and AILE are on the right, THRO on the left. Forward/backwards works on right stick but not left/right, which only works on RUDD. Also, THRO doesn't work with a servo. I think it looks like a receiver problem as my Devo 7e was...

Since I'm a dummy who hasn't done electronics since school, I wanted to ask where is the best place in a circuit to put an LED. I'm aware a visible light has to be seen on a competitive robot, hence why I'm going to put them in my circuits now. Also, should it be the right voltage i.e. the same as a...

After two years, I finally got back into antweight building. I bought a Pololu Zumo chassis and GoolRC TG3 pistol transmitter with receiver, and while I didn't get round to using the DasMikro ESC (and likely never will unless someone with steadier hands can solder for me), I got a Bristol Bot Builde...

I've got the parts for building my next robot called Watta Doze, and it's simply a Pololu Zumo track-bot chassis with a static polycarbonate scoop. It should be a lot easier to put together than Flipper the Priest. I've got a transmitter and receiver (GoolRC TG3 3-channel), a 180mAh LiPo, 2 300rpm 6...

This one? https://www.arc-robotics.org.uk/product ... ontroller/

It's made by another UK robotics team and regular AWS hosts, and though you need to have a separate receiver, you can get that from them too.

Nice work so far! I just wanted to ask if you're sticking to the 4 inch cube rule on the size of your robot? I'm asking because you actually don't need to have the robot sit square in the cube. My own robot is 4 inches wide, 2 inches high, but 5 inches long, but it'll still fit in the cube if I laid...