The main reason for wheels at the back is that if someone get underneath you at the front then central wheels will be instantly lifted in the air meaning you can't get off their wedge whereas wheels at the back are safer against wedges because however far up the wedge you are you can still reverse off.
However as long as the weight balance is right then don't feel the need to change your design,just be careful of letting wedges get at your front
Antweight first build diary
Moderators: BeligerAnt, petec, administrator
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- Posts: 433
- Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2014 9:34 pm
- Location: Stroud,Gloucestershire
Re: Antweight first build diary
Team Badger
Has a 3d printer now yay
-£4.82+VAT (intact)
-cool modulated printed thingy
-not yet built nasty mean spinnt thingy
I'm gonna build something huge and stupid, try and stop me
Has a 3d printer now yay
-£4.82+VAT (intact)
-cool modulated printed thingy
-not yet built nasty mean spinnt thingy
I'm gonna build something huge and stupid, try and stop me
Re: Antweight first build diary
That's what I was worried about I like the look of it but like you said it is a weak point really nice to steer etc but most are a wedge design so maybe more the wheels to the back as I'm rebuilding anyway
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- Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 12:37 am
- Location: Eastleigh, nr Southampton
- Contact:
Re: Antweight first build diary
That's looking really good! With the motor controller, you can remove the aluminium plate off the backs the heat generated from the use in antweights is minimal, meaning you can have more weight free. Anyone second this to confirm?
Some projects done: Wirelessly controlled mechanical hand/arm
Heavyweight: Short Circuit
Antweight robot : Locking wheel nuts, dell-apidated bANTtry...
Featherweight : Wanna Choppa, CASPer
Check out http://www.Roboteernat.co.uk for more details
Heavyweight: Short Circuit
Antweight robot : Locking wheel nuts, dell-apidated bANTtry...
Featherweight : Wanna Choppa, CASPer
Check out http://www.Roboteernat.co.uk for more details
Re: Antweight first build diary
I've taken that off I think by weighing everything dropping down to 1.5mm polycarb and using more bends in the body to save on screws I'll be using 10 instead of 25 and I'm going to get a smaller battery for events! hopefully that will bring me under still stuck on wether or not to move the wheels? I'm really happy with the design just make it a lot neater next time
Re: Antweight first build diary
I'd definitely move the wheels to the rear, it helps hugely with getting under things by putting the robots weight on the scoop.
Nuts And Bots - For all your components and ready built antweights!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
Re: Antweight first build diary
Yeah I think I will and leave them exposed at the back to help self-right. I sorted a name TITANT I googled Titan and it came up
Re: Antweight first build diary
Just wanted to say thankyou to everyone for there tips and pointers what started as a quick robot to fulfil a childhood ambition and a toy for my son. (It's mine now) has turned into an addiction and an awesome hobby I'm really looking forward to the first event and meeting some of you and seeing how the pros do it
Re: Antweight first build diary
Is there any plastic lighter than polycarbonate that I could us for the flipper and base of my robot also what do people think of carbon fibre
- BeligerAnt
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- Joined: Wed May 15, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Brighton
- Contact:
Re: Antweight first build diary
High density polyethylene (HDPE) is less dense than polycarbonate (PC), so less weight for the same volume. The downside is that it is a lot more flexible than PC so for the same stiffness you will end up using thicker material, so more weight... It's also almost impossible to stick anything to it. You need to weld it together or use nuts & bolts.
HDPE works well as armour, as its flexibility lets it absorb some impact from spinners. RONNY uses 1mm HDPE armour and it has stood up remarkably well to several spinners.
For a chassis, you will need 2 or 3mm HDPE to get the stiffness you need. Even 2mm might be a bit marginal. RONNY uses 3mm HDPE with *lots* of holes drilled to reduce weight.
For a flipper, which is basically a long lever, you need something very stiff. 1mm PC works OK if you stiffen it by adding a folded edge or some reinforcement.
HDPE works well as armour, as its flexibility lets it absorb some impact from spinners. RONNY uses 1mm HDPE armour and it has stood up remarkably well to several spinners.
For a chassis, you will need 2 or 3mm HDPE to get the stiffness you need. Even 2mm might be a bit marginal. RONNY uses 3mm HDPE with *lots* of holes drilled to reduce weight.
For a flipper, which is basically a long lever, you need something very stiff. 1mm PC works OK if you stiffen it by adding a folded edge or some reinforcement.
Gary, Team BeligerAnt