pnematics advice

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EpicentrE
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by EpicentrE »

I've always bought mine from RS Components or eBay. Regarding the tank, there's no tutorial I know of, but what you need to do is first make sure the tank is as depressurised as possible by pressing/holding it down until you can no longer hear gas escaping. Then you need to create a way to connect your air supply to it; normally this would involve replacing the original in-built valve or tube with a length of tubing and epoxying it in place to create an airtight seal.

Please do be very careful when testing any pneumatic system, though; if possible, always pressurise it underwater (or while covered in soapy water) first so that you can see any leaks, and make sure you are protected when pressurising it elsewhere. This means either be behind a screen, have the system in a sealed box, etc.
Scott Fyfe-Jamieson, Captain of Epic Robotics. Champion of AWS38/41/42.
http://www.epicrobotics.co.uk
suvv
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by suvv »

luckly i still have all the stuff from when i pressure tested the system for the boat i built a while ago ,made a shield out of lexan that fits over a washing up bowl and from the pics i have seen it looks like people use bike valves as fill valves for the tank can someone confirm this or is there a better way and if anyone has pictures that would be helpful too
how hard can it be???
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Rhys
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by Rhys »

You will need a no return valve to fill the system. These are available from hobby king. I fill mine with a pump/compressor with a needle valve that is usually used to pump up footballs. This is connected to the no return valve with the clear hose I posted a link to yesterday. You can use a bike valve bit it's fiddly and heavy.

As for making a tank, make sure it is empty. Then I usually drill a 2mm hole and tap a 3mm thread into it. I then screw in one of these :
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/190836829042

I then secure it and make it air tight with epoxy putty. Then remove the old push valve at the top of the deoderant can and cover it with more putty. Make sure it all dries rock hard before you put any pressure in it.

I'll see if I can find my old setup and get a picture up over the weekend.
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suvv
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by suvv »

thank you
how hard can it be???
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peterwaller
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by peterwaller »

In the past I have had a few plays with pneumatics and I found small model aircraft fuel tanks made good pneumatic tanks.
They usually come with tube fittings and a screw on lid which has a built in seal which when compressed seals the tank and around the tubes.
Something like this:
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/85467/
Here is a sketch of another type of tank I did from a spray can but you can use the same method to generate a one way filler valve on the fuel tank.
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suvv
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by suvv »

well for the benefit of science i have purchased 2 of them fuel tanks and i shall work on one pressure test it and see how it fares and will let you know the results and if good i shall start working on my system :)
how hard can it be???
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suvv
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by suvv »

quick question a little off topic is this battery too much or not enough for running 2 of those little gear motors
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=32170
how hard can it be???
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EpicentrE
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by EpicentrE »

Far too much. If you're only running 2 gearmotors on 2 cells you can get away with around 100mah minimum, and I wouldn't go above 150-180 unless you specifically want to have lots of run time.
Scott Fyfe-Jamieson, Captain of Epic Robotics. Champion of AWS38/41/42.
http://www.epicrobotics.co.uk
Rapidrory
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by Rapidrory »

Rory Mangles - Team Nuts

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NanoTwo Motor Controllers: https://nutsandbots.co.uk/product/nanotwodualesc
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joey_picus
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Re: pnematics advice

Post by joey_picus »

I've usually used 120-180mah packs (at the moment I seem to be using the Hyperion ones a lot - they're a lot easier to charge too as you can get a 1-4 cell auto charger and just plug in and press one button), although I've got some 30mah cells for the nanoweight when that gets built!

Unless you're running a high current weapon you can probably run on one 100-200mah pack for most of an event, certainly three or four fights at least, without having to worry much about charging - I tend to have my batteries on Velcro so I can have one in the robot and the rest on charge or ready during longer events.
Joey McConnell-Farber - Team Picus Telerobotics - http://picus.org.uk/ - @joey_picus
"These dreams go on when I close my eyes...every second of the night, I live another life"
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